Guide · house
A home charger for a house
A home charger is a fixed charging point at the house. Start with the supply, then compare models. This is a short version of the Swedish guide.
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Start with the house supply
Home charging speed is set by the main fuse, the phases, and the other loads in the house. Check the board before comparing models.
Single-phase or three-phase
Most Swedish houses have three-phase 230/400 V. A 16 A single-phase circuit is about 3.7 kW. A 16 A three-phase supply is about 11 kW. Those are ceilings for the supply, not a promise about a specific charger. A car that charges on one phase loads only one phase.
A 16, 20, or 25 amp main fuse
16, 20, and 25 A are the usual main fuses in a Swedish house. An 11 kW three-phase charge draws about 16 A on every phase, so a 16 A fuse has nothing left for the house. Read the load-balancing guide before expecting full power all evening.
Fixed cable or socket
A tethered cable is convenient for one car that parks in the same place. A Type 2 socket lets you use the car’s own cable, which suits two cars or visitors. Safety sits in the installation, not in which of the two you pick.
Placement and IP rating
A short cable route from the board to the parking place is a smaller job than a trench across the garden. Read the IP code on the datasheet against the actual spot: an open wall is harsher than a dry garage. IP54, for example, means dust-protected and protected against splashing water. That explains the code. It is not a rule that every charger must carry it.
Installation by a registered electrician
Connecting a charger is electrical installation work. In Sweden a registered electrical contractor must do it. Check the firm with the National Electrical Safety Board before you accept a quote. The green deduction also depends on a company doing the installation.
Residual current: RDC-DD and Type B
A car can leak a small direct current. A Type A residual-current device may not detect smooth DC and can be blinded by it. Chargers with an RDC-DD to IEC 62955 detect 6 mA DC and are often installed with a Type A device. Without that function, a Type B device is the usual choice. The datasheet and the electrician decide for each model.
Smart features worth asking about
Scheduling, access control, and a meter are useful in some houses and irrelevant in others. A feature is not claimed for a model until a source is attached on the product page.
Solar on the same house
Surplus solar charging needs a live measurement of the house, often the same meter used for dynamic load balancing, or a link to the inverter. Not every charger can do it. Confirm the path with the installer.
What to do next
Note the fuse, the phases, the cable route, and whether the unit sits indoors. Then use the 2026 comparison, the load-balancing guide, and the green-deduction guide. None of them replaces a look at the board.
Common questions
Is single-phase enough for a house?
Yes, if you accept a lower ceiling, about 3.7 kW at 16 A. Many cars still fill overnight. Three-phase raises the ceiling only when the fuse and the car can share it with the house.
Can I install the charger myself?
No. The connection to the board must be done by a registered electrical contractor. Doing it yourself is electrical work you should not carry out, and it does not qualify for the green deduction.
Which IP rating is needed outdoors?
The code the manufacturer states for outdoor use, read against your exact spot. An open wall asks more than a dry garage. No model gets a rating here until the datasheet states it.
Do I need a Type B residual-current device?
If the charger has no RDC-DD that detects 6 mA DC, Type B is the usual protection. If it has that function, Type A is often enough. The electrician reads the datasheet and the existing board.